It’s still chilly out there and several friends have asked for a recipe for my smoked haddock chowder.  I visited Cape Cod last July and ordered this at a diner, a ‘locals’ cafe and a very upmarket, smart restaurant.  On the whole, I was disappointed each time.  The chowder was too milky and not fishy enough – no big flakes of lovely smoked haddock.  The vegetable content was largely just bits of potato.  All round, not enough love or care in the chowder.

The only solution is to make your own.  I’ve said it before but please DO NOT overcook the haddock. It’s expensive but you don’t need that much per person. Prep all the vegetables so they are the same size and make sure they are very fresh. Use double cream to finish and a good handful of chopped, flat leaf parsley.  The addition of lemon zest finishes it off with a zingy taste.  It can be an elegant starter for a winter dinner party or a filling lunch on it’s own. Serve with brown bread. Look out for this in a future post – a whole new subject for us!

Smoked Haddock Chowder – serves 6
800 g undyed smoked haddock
1 litre full fat milk
6 black peppercorns
25 g unsalted butter
3 rashers smoked streaky bacon, derinded and chopped
1 leek, washed
3 carrots, washed
3 celery sticks, washed
3 medium potatoes, washed
3 sprigs lemon thyme
2 bay leaves
sea salt and freshly gound black pepper
150 ml double cream
grated zest of a lemon
handful of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

Chop all the washed vegetables so they are diced the same size. Lay out the fish on a board and check for pin bones. Place the milk and peppercorns in a wide saucepan and gently heat. Bring to a simmer, add the haddock and remove from the heat.  The cooling liquid will gently cook the fish

In another saucepan, melt the butter and cook the bacon until it is just browning. Add all the vegetables and herbs and cook gently for 10 minutes

Drain the haddock but keep the poaching milk.  Gently break the fish into large flakes and
look out for any bones you may have missed. Strain the poaching milk to remove the peppercorns then add the liquid to the vegetables. You now need to turn the heat up slightly so the potatoes and carrots are just tender. Don’t let the milk boil.  Carefully add the haddock flakes and stir everything together. Discard the herbs and add the cream. Warm it through again and taste to check the seasoning.  It’s unlikely to need any more salt.

Serve in warmed soup bowls and garnish with the chopped parsley and lemon zest. This is perfect for the weather right now.

I would love to hear from anyone who would like to make a comment.

Next time – TREACLE TART



Pigeon & Beetroot Terrine

As of 1st February, the pheasant and partridge season is over but there is still  pigeon to be had out there in the countryside. Around us, the locals will gather in the woods during the late afternoon on a Saturday waiting for dusk and the pigeons coming to roost. These wily birds are really wild and very difficult to shoot as they jink high in the sky. The guns must remain well hidden in the near dark so they are not seen.

Therefore, any wild pigeon should be treated with the respect it deserves in the kitchen. If you are given any pigeon, pluck the breast feathers off straight away and then cut the breasts off. This is not a game bird to roast. Two tips – do NOT cook the pigeon breasts for too long.  Flash fry them for 30 seconds on each side then roast for 3 minutes.  Overcooked pigeon breast is tough and horrible to eat. Secondly, I always marinade the pigeon breast for 24 hours in a combination of red wine, a little goundnut oil and seasoning such as garlic and herbs. The process of marinading the meat helps to tenderise it and also improves the flavour of the pigeon that has been cooked quickly. If you are looking for a supply of pigeon, ask your local butcher or, in the countryside, a farmer.

For a recipe, I go back to an old cookery book Cooking for Friends by Raymond Blanc (1994).  He looks very young on the front cover! You can still get a Used copy on Amazon for £4.30. Pigeon & Beetroot terrine is a recipe that is brilliant for a winter dinner party.  It’s not difficult as long as you plan ahead and as always, use the correct sized equipment. In this case, a loaf tin.  I buy all this type of kitchen stuff in Biggers of Bailgate in Lincoln – contact details below.  You will need a weight to press the terrine down and I use a bag of lentils/beans etc.  Use something that is heavy and will also spread out to fill the space.

Finally a serving tip. After the terrine has been turned out, use a very sharp carving knife to cut a clean, tidy slice. I then use a cake slice to carefully place it on the plate.  I am making it sound a huge faff. It’s not, but I have done this many times and this is the best method. Please try it, your family and friends will be impressed and it’s delicious.

Equipment – 1 loaf (terrine) tin 9 inches long, 4 inches wide and 4 inches deep
8 breasts of wild pigeon
1 tbsp groundnut oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the marinade
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp red wine
2 juniper berries, crushed
freshly ground black pepper
1 bayleaf

For the terrine
1 kg beetroots
1 tbsp caster sugar\
12 black peppercorns, crushed
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
5 gelatine leaves – soak them in a bowl of cold water to soften

For the garnish
2 handfuls of various salad leaves
3 1/2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar

Method –
Mix the marinade ingredients together. Place the pigeon breasts in a small flat dish and pour over the marinade. Cover with cling film and leave in the fridge for 24 hours. It’s good if you can remember to turn them a few times.

Wash the beetroots and place in a casserole dish. Cover with cold water and add a tsp of salt, the sugar, peppercorns and vinegar. Simmer for 50 minutes.  I do this in the Aga (baking oven), otherwise a moderate oven – 150C if fine. Check they are cooked with a knife blade – they may need more time if they are large. Leave them to cool in the liquid.
This will be retained to make the jelly.  Peel the beetroot and chop into 1/2 inch dice. Taste to check the seasoning.  Set aside.

Place 300 ml of the beetroot water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the softened gelatine, take off the heat and stir. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 230C. Place the terrine tin in the freezer for at least 20 minutes.

Remove the pigeon breasts from the marinade and pat dry. Take a frying pan and heat the oil until hot. Sear the breasts for 30 seconds on each side. Season with salt and pepper and then place in a roasting tin in the oven for 3 minutes. Remove from the tin and allow to cool. Season again with more salt and pepper.

You will now build the terrine.  Remove the terrine tin from the freezer and pour an 1/8inch
layer of jelly on the bottom.  This will set immediately. Neatly place a layer of diced beetroot in the terrine, then along the middle, a line of pigeon breast. Cover with another layer of the diced beetroot. Top with the beetroot jelly and cover the terrine with cling film.  Place the weight on top of the cling film and refrigerate for at least 12 hours.

Just before serving, remove the weight and cling film from the terrine.  Dip the terrine tin in hot water. Heat a sharp knife under hot water and carefully run the blade along the inside.
Carefully invert onto a flat plate.  Cut the terrine into slices and using the cake slice, place
onto the plates. Garnish with the salad leaves.  Shake the salad dressing ingredients in a jam jar, season and drizzle onto the leaves.  Your guests will love this delicious and smart

Contact details – In Lincoln, Biggers of Bailgate – 01522 525 536

I would love to hear from anyone who would like to make a comment.